While most Hindus celebrate the triumph of good over evil on the new moon night of Diwali, Varanasi waits a whole fortnight to really bust out the fireworks. On the full moon 15 nights after Diwali, the holy city celebrates Dev Deepavali—literally, the Diwali of the Gods—when the gods and goddesses are believed to visit the Earth for a dip in the river. Another myth attributes the festival to the defeat of the demon Tripurasura by the city’s patron deity, Shiva. This year, Dev Deepavali falls on Sunday, November 29, 2020.
The bustling city is filled with thousands of pilgrims from around the world, who begin the day by immersing themselves in the river and offering diyas to the goddess Ganga. Pujas and feasts are held, and courtyards decorated with rangoli patterns. Thousands of clay lamps glitter on the city’s 84 ghats, with the spectacular daily Ganga aarti performed in full fervour for the river deity. It is an experience that is at once spectacular, overwhelming and unforgettable.
See our guide to Varanasi’s musical cafes here.
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